Berlin in Frankfurt

Unbelievably (and…believably?) my last post was 2.5 years ago. A lot has happened in those 30 months. I became a mother, went through the highest highs and lowest lows of postpartum and new motherhood, mostly enjoy our last year in Vienna then moved back to Nova with an 11 month old and a nearly unmanageable amount of luggage (see below). Since then time has both dragged and flown as we settled into our house and life back in the U.S.

While mostly settled, I find that I am constantly seeking out a type of beauty that is REALLY hard to find here in the suburban DMV. Here is what I’ve found so far. I’ve lived in the DC area my whole life except for 5 years overseas. This in not a complete list but what I’ve had time for with a toddler in tow!

Georgetown 

Georgetown has a number of locations that help scratch that European itch. 

Boulangerie Christophe has excellent pastries – may I call out in particular the pain aux raisins, French baguette, and the seasonal loaves. A few visits ago I tried out a hearty loaf studded with apricot and walnut – toasted with butter it is a perfect accompaniment to morning coffee. The best part is all the languages I hear waiting in line, last time it was French and Italian.

The Oak Hill Cemetery – while this cemetery only goes back to the civil war era it reminds me of the cemeteries I so enjoyed walking through in Frankfurt and Vienna (among other cities). The relationship with cemeteries felt so different  in Europe; while still a place of quiet reverence, people would go on strolls, sit on the benches and enjoy the weather. I always felt them to be a good place to be quiet and think and sit in the company of those who have gone before us. Oak Hill has some lovely graves, impressive mausoleums, and beautiful sloping grounds. You can see a few pictures and info about Frankfurt’s main cemetery here.

Tudor Place – The grounds are free to stroll and it appears they have a number of events throughout the year. We didn’t tour the house but can recommend the gift shop. Museum shops are truly one of my favorite places to search for a unique gift with a story to tell about your visit. My favorite part of the gardens was this long pool flanked by large bronze dogs, covered in patina from years of DC weather. 

Kafe Leopold – I find myself wandering here again and again while in Georgetown. I’ve been with S several times as well as a date brunch with Jeff. Seeing Austrian favorites on the menu and perusing the beautiful pastry case whisks me away. I’ve enjoyed their brunch dishes in particular, their olive tart, and their strudel. Apparently they have a good schnitzel as well? Wash it down with a spritz or a glass of crisp Gruener Veltliner. 

Washington National Cathedral– I’ve actually been here quite a few times since moving back. I went to Handel’s Messiah Christmas 2023, a charming family Christmas service this past December 2024, and my brother and sister-in-law were married there April 2024 in the dreamiest wedding I’ll ever have the pleasure of attending. WNC is the second largest cathedral in the U.S. (Cathedral of St. John in NYC is #1) and I feel transported to the architecture of European churches when inside. When spring comes, I’d love to stroll the grounds more and apparently there is a cathedral cafe?

Around NOVA

Clifton has several options for a little European escape. Trummer’s is owned by Austrian Stefan Trummer (incidentally the last name of our good Austrian friends and neighbors in Vienna!). They have a number of Austrian dishes on the menu such as Wienerschnitzel with lingonberry as well as incredibly impressive wine cellar featuring some lovely Austrian wines. When we had dinner there last year, the owner heard we had lived in Austria and came to chat with us for a while then sent us a schnitzel on the house! That’s Austrian hospitality for you.

Trummer also owns Trummer’s Coffee and Wine Bar in Gainesville –  I’ve been once and they definitely have some service kinks to work out but my fig strudel was delicious and they make a really solid espresso martini. Nice wine list too.

Trattoria Villagio is certainly American – Italian but consistently delicious fresh and seasonal food and great service. But my favorite favorite part is their “piazza” courtyard area in the middle. They have heaters in the winter and lush plants and a fountain running in the summer. When I sit there drinking an Aperol spritz I truly almost forget I’m in Northern Virginia. 

Down the street from Village there is a small French style cafe “Motier.” I find the prices a little crazy but a coffee and a pain aux raisins or pain au chocolate from there does scratch the itch! They have a small outdoor seating area which is quite pleasant in the warm weather. 

The Swiss Bakery and Pastry Shop – located in a strip mall in Springfield near 495. They have a VERY impressive selection of fresh baked goods both savory and sweet as well as seating with a full menu of Swiss & European classics. They also have a small marketplace store section with European products. The whole place feels a little kitschy but everything I got was delicious. 

National Gallery of Art West building – I love to stroll the galleries and just sit in the rotunda and take in the architecture. Did you know it was modeled after the Roman Pantheon? I’m not going to say the coffee and pastries are stellar but I do like to sit and have a coffee and treat in the Garden Cafe or the Espresso & Gelato Bar by the cascade fountain wall near the walkway to the east building. I also can’t seem to visit the gift shops there without buying something.

Other things on my to-do list or of note:

• Glenstone Museum – apparently no kids under the age of 12 so sort of limits my opportunities since I tend to drag a toddler everywhere with me but I’m dying to explore.
• The Phillips Collection – it’s been YEARS. I last went for Degas Ballerinas. I’d like to go either for a special exhibition or a Phillips after 5 event.
• Larz Anderson House – headquarters for the Society of the Cincinnati and tours available
• Hillwood Estate and Gardens – somehow I’ve never been here but the gardens look stunning and I am impressed with their variety of events.
• Shakespeare Cafe at the Folger Library – Looks straight out of Oxford and I must go.
• Franciscan Monastery in Northeast DC – I haven’t been since a field trip in elementary school. Their grounds are beautiful and peaceful.
• Dumbarton Oaks House and Gardens – to be honest I haven’t made it back here since we moved back to D.C. but they have absolutely lovely English style gardens, house tours, and charming events like Jane Austen outdoor movies in summer.